Monday 20 June 2011

Post 13, 20 June, from Marshfield, Missouri

Greetings all. (That's very English, isn't it? But I have noticed that this far into Missouri they don't seem to say "How ya doin'?" as folk did further east. And I had become reasonably fluent at mumbling it myself!)

Well, after my excellent rest day at Wilderness Lodge, Lesterville, I left in the rain. (Photo kindly emailed to me by Tom, one of the owners, who like everyone else there was incredibly kind and helpful. Thank you!)


But it didn't last long. There were thunderstorms the following night too, but they cleared by morning. So far, then, I am being pretty lucky with the weather......

My daily routine is pretty established now, which makes life very simple and straightforward - far far more so than you people who have jobs to go to, homes to run, social lives to lead, etc etc.

Up at 5.30, and hopefully there is breakfast in my motel (sometimes instant oatmeal, always muffins or toast). If no breakfast in the motel, one can find breakfast in convenience stores from as early as 6, with "hot biscuits" + eggs, sausage, bacon, etc. On the road by 7.30 if poss, to do as much of the day's mileage as I can before noon; after that the heat can be wearing.

My maps show where on the route there are convenience stores or cafes to eat, and if there is one, I like a coffee and a muffin within 10 or 15 miles. Then any time after 11, I love to have a longer stop with a BLT sandwich and some iced tea (but quite often there isn't anywhere at all to do this - in which case I stop every 10 or so miles wherever I am and tuck into my own supplies). I hope to get to my destination by 2 or 3 pm, but that depends on the distance of course. Days vary between say 40 miles and, as today, 70 or more.

I like this road sign, nice descent coming!

The routine then continues in the motel. Is there wifi? Is there a phone in my room or does my cellphone have signal, so Janet - and other family members - can skype me? Is there a guest laundry (usually not), or do I have to hand wash my cycling kit? (I have learnt simply spreading it out in the sun on some grass outside will dry it very quickly.) Then emails (if wifi or phone signal) and perhaps working on a Blog Post. Then find somewhere to eat, perhaps around 6 pm: usually there are fast food places near the motels, and I opt for the most carbo-rich dish there is (and usually I pay only about $10, which is great value for the main meal of the day). Then back to my room, write my personal log, and aim to be in bed by 9! And then the next day do it all again......

Goodness, reading that last bit through makes it all sound incredibly boring. But of course the routine exists only to provide the best possible framework for what the trip is all about. And that of course is the heartwarmingly kind and open people I meet, the slowly changing scenery I am part of, and the sense of getting a fascinating glimpse into a great country.

The weirdest place I have stayed in was two nights ago. The only accommodation I could find in a place called Eminence on Saturday, even booking two days ahead, was the honeymoon suite in a riverside lodge (fiercely expensive; don't ask...). It was all set up for young lovers - whirlpool bath, two-person shower, massive TV, lovely private verandah above the river, etc etc. All rather bizarre for a single old fogey (for although I invited her, sadly my bride couldn't get a flight in time to join me.....).

A rest crossing the Current River in the Ozarks

I am almost out of the Ozark Mountains now. The bad things I had heard about them have, happily, not been the case in practice. But there have been a lot of ups and downs, some as steep (though not as long) as in the Appalachians.

Some more nature notes.

Going back to my cabin in Wilderness Lodge after dinner, in the twilight, I was enchanted to see fireflies darting around in the gloaming. It was light enough to see their bodies, and I was surprised that they are quite big - perhaps half an inch long. The light seems to be emitted from their tails - fascinating. How and why do they light up so brightly?

Two deer leapt gracefully across the road in front of me the other day. Their elegance was in contrast with a squirrel I had disturbed on the road previously; it sped off to the verge, not realising that it was heading for a deep and wide ditch. It gave a mighty leap but only made it halfway across, and landed very ungracefully with all four legs straight out, just like a character in a cartoon. Brilliant.

More turtle stories. Yesterday I saw two that clearly understood the dangers of the road, and were sprinting (do I mean that? - they were going very purposefully anyway) towards the verge and safety. They made it. But another fellow, further on, apparently thought it a good idea to have a snooze in the middle of the road; I woke him up and carried him to the long grass at the side of the road. But, sadly, I failed to save a tiny tiny turtle elsewhere. A pick-up truck was coming the other way, and I could only watch as it seemed deliberately to aim at itthe little creature. At least it died instantly. "Bastard", I called out loud.....

Outside one convenience store, where I stopped yesterday, the owner has hung up bird feeders for a local colony of humming birds. I have never seen them before, effectively able to stay stationary in the air - or so it seemed. So beautiful.

More names which take my fancy. Small towns called "Licking" and "Success" have been just off my route. "Scattered Acres Loop" and "Owls Bend" both sound enchanting. I misread one farm sign; at first glance I thought it said "Aliens' Center Point Research". Then I saw it read "Allens....". And I was puzzled to see a sign - which I didn't misread -advertising "Black Dirt for Sale". What's that? (Should any reader need some, the phone number to ring is 464 0432, but I don't know if they will deliver.....)

Unconventional mailbox!

Anyway, two more days in Missouri, then Kansas (and flatness!).

Thanks again to those who have sent me super emails recently - hugely appreciated.

All best wishes, Ken

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