Post 26, Wednesday 3 August, from Eureka, Montana

Hi all

This is my second Eureka; the first was in Kansas and seems a very long time ago. This one is less than 10 miles from the Canadian border, so I have ridden almost the length of Montana, about 600 miles just in the one State.

Summit Lake in Clearwater Valley

 And it remains beautiful, and I think of all the 8 States I have been through, it has given me my best cycling so far. But Washington, and the N Cascade mountains, may yet eclipse it.....

The Flathead River at Columbia Falls, MT

 One of the features of northern Montana is the large number of lakes. Typically they have pine-clad shores, but they look tranquil and tempting, and clearly lots of folk holiday on them. Most are formed by dams (for hydro-electricity, I am guessing). Some are huge; tomorrow I shall cycle along Lake Koocanusa for at least 50 miles!

The turquoise waters of Dickey Lake

It's the mountains that make the scenery special, though, and every day there have been too many photos to take.

More majestic Montana mountains (note the alliteration!)

Sometimes, though, my route goes through National Forest lands (and logging is one of Montana's main industries), but I have to say I would rather have the broad vistas of the wide valley basins and the majestic mountains. Cycling through forest for mile after mile is boring in comparison!

Even on a beautiful day cycling through the National Forest can be boring!

I am constantly struck be how green the countryside looks. And now I understand a little more why this should be. The winter and spring were clesrly exceptionally wet. The other day, idly flicking through a local paper in a cafe, and I saw a chart comparing the current depths and flow of a number of major Montana rivers with their normal rates at this time of year. Both depth and flow were typically double!

Rivers are fast-flowing this year

 Cycling has continued to be very social. The evening after doing my last Post, in Missoula, I had dinner with no fewer than 6 other cyclists (and one local resident who was a friend of two of them). The 6 were Graham and Wendy, the Kiwis (who enjoyed teasing this Pom), Ben and Olive (the honeymoon TransAmmers from Seattle) and also a German couple who have, it seems, done major tours together every year for 30 years. An evening in such company was great fun.

Sociable cyclists' dinner in Missoula

 Now I am off the main TransAm route I expected to see fewer cycle tourists. But today, following a chance encounter for breakfast with one cyclist travelling westwards, I then met on the road a young British guy, Sam, who having been made redundant from his job in London reckons he will cycle on down the US west coast, through Mexico, and eventually get to Argentina, taking perhaps two years! We cycled together for 30 miles or so today, and will doubtless meet up again in the next few days. And it turns out he lived only 2 miles from where we were in London!

Sam, from Britain, who is cycling to Argentina!

I will confess to beginning to feel tired; perhaps that isn't surprising. But after my rest day in Missoula I found it hard mentally to get going again, and I felt low through that first day, just wishing I could magic myself to Anacortes and 13 August. I expressed those feelings in my daily email to family and close friends. 'TransAm Mike' (with whom and his wife Joan I hooked up for several days way back in Virginia) emailed me back reminding me to 'enjoy'. I had forgotten the lesson that it's about the journey not about the destination; so I am now back to enjoying the days and the moments, sights, encounters, etc, that comprise each day. Mike's advice was wise and timely.

Harvesting the hay

 Let me share a superb story of supreme customer service.... On Sunday, I took my bike into the Open Road bike store in Missoula for a check. When I collected it, I didn't notice the pump was not in its clip on the frame. (Without a pump, of course, one is totally stuck if one has a puncture.)

In the evening I was approaching the restaurant where I had arranged to meet Graham and Wendy, and Olive and Ben (as mentioned above). I saw that outside it was Adam, the mechanic from the bike shop. "Ken, here's your pump," he said. He had found it in his workshop while closing up for the day (having taken it off my bike while working on it), and because he had overheard the dinner arrangement I was making with Graham while in the shop, he took the pump home, then drove specially to the restaurant to meet me there.

Adam and Andrew, from the Open Road bike store

 I find that an amazing example of service; thank you Adam!

You may recall my recent rant about RVs and how absurd some of them seem. Yesterday I was able to photograph a couple more which for me typified their excess.

"Patriot Thunder" RV

 I had seen a "Patriot Thunder" RV before, and was amazed by its size - but also by its name. I wonder if there is an RV make called "Shock and Awe"? (or does the Pentagon have copyright over that name??!!). I prefer the brand name I saw an altogether more modest RV trailer - "Joy Feather".

Driving to recreation!

 A few more names that I have noted, from the mountains, valleys, and creeks which I pass by: "Broken Leg Mountain" must have a story. "Soup Creek" and "Fatty Creek" sound unusual. But "Lost Creek"? (How do you lose a creek?) And I have enjoyed "Many Lakes Road", and, today, "Farm to Market Road"....

I shall Post again on Monday, which is my next (and last) rest day. By then I shall have passed through northern Idaho (one night only) and will be in Washington.

And in closing might I just insert a gentle reminder about The Stroke Association, for which this ride of mine seeks donations? Thank you.     http://www.justgiving.com/Ken-Temple

All best wishes, Ken