Post 4, 24 May.

Charlottesville, on my 5th morning.  In a posh hotel, so taking advantage of computers in the lobby.

I'm also perhaps putting off starting the day's ride, which has my first big climb!.  The bike is well-laden;  the two panniers and my bar bag weigh about 19 kgs, and the effect is OK on the flat and fine downhill (!), but as soon as the gradient starts upwards, the bike seems to stop dead, making me toil. And on a hilly route, one inevitably spends much more time crawling up than whooshing down, which can be dispiriting.  But I've got to get used to it - the Rockies are more than a bump, I am told.

And it is hot and humid too, certainly here in Virginia - the thermometer on my handlebars, admittedly in the direct sun (but then so am I) has gone as high as 38!  No rain yet though, albeit it has looked very thundery some afternoons.

I am following a route set out by the 'Adventure Cycling Association'.  I have a good set of maps from them, which guide me through every junction and intersection, and also a book written by a couple who did the TransAm some years ago and who helpfully set out the journey in daily sections, which I am following.  The book suggests places to stay, and I book one or two days ahead.  So far have stayed in two plantation B&Bs, one (nice and cheap) motel, and last night this posher one.

The language takes some getting used to.  I am learning to say 'grocery store' rather than 'supermarket', and 'wadder' not 'water'.  Some things puzzle me though.....  Leaving Ashland, a small town, on Sunday morning, there were notices startingly advertising the "Ashland Shag Festival" that same day.  I didn't ask, but the mind boggled......!

I met another cycle tourist yesterday, the first I have seen (I expected to encounter more on this well-cycled route).  She and her husband are headed to the West Coast too, and we plan to meet up from time to time - it was a big morale boost to talk with a kindred spirit on the road.

Thanks for all your messages.  I have email on my US-bought blackberry (at my usual yahoo address), and I intend to respond to all who kindly send me messages.  So please keep them coming!  I had hoped too to post photos on this blog as I go, taken on the blackberry, but frustratingly blogspot doesn't let me do that from a handheld device;  so unless the family back home are able to attach pictures which I email to them, readers will have to rely on my words to paint the scene.........

All best wishes, Ken