As I left Pueblo yesterday morning I went through real suburbs - it took 5 miles to get fully out of town. Momentarily, as I passed some shops, I thought that Colorado had embraced cricket (and the Test Match Special theme was on my brain for several miles....). Sadly not.
As it turned out Pueblo was not - as I termed it - the 'gateway to the Rockies', as after Pueblo there is quite a wide plain before Canon (pronounced 'canyon') City (where I stayed last night). But there was a little climb 7 miles out of Pueblo, and since I hadn't encountered any proper ascents since 22 June, I was puffed at the top! But there was a cyclist coming down, who shouted across to me, "You hang tough!" - a good motto for all the climbing that lay - and lies -ahead.
Colorado was first opened up by the white man for beaver fur. But in the 19th century it was the prospect of gold and silver which lured people. I passed yesterday an information site about mining in that part; the area became known as "Hardscrabble". How descriptive!
I mentioned that to a cafe owner today, and his comment was, "The guy who sold the miner his pick-axe made more money than he did!". That said, there were strikes of both gold and silver there in the very late 19th century, leading to boom towns like Querida and Rosita - which then died as quickly as they boomed.
More curious names for the collection from a small town called Florence, just outside Canyon City. I passed a business advertising "Bearly used and new tires"; now I know there are bears hereabouts, but that seemed ridiculous. And there was a store calling itself "Diamond and Rust Antiques" - curious! And by far the least attractive street name I have ever seen, anywhere, was "Cyanide Lane"....
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| A world away from the Praries! |
In the 19th century, when the railroads were pushing westwards, the Gorge was the shortest - but technically very very difficult - way west. Two competing companies wanted to build through the Gorge, and there are stories of crazy mutual sabotage. Litigation eventually gave the victory to one of the two, and the line was completed. Passenger and freight services used it until relatively recently, then it closed, but a private company has started running tourist trips through the Gorge. I splurged, and loved it - an hour out and an hour back. Across the highest part of the Gorge there is a suspension bridge (which rather dwarfs the Clifton one in Bristol!). And as we came downstream we watched two kayakers - I was open-mouthed at what they went down.
So today I have entered the Rockies proper. And, even though I was expecting them to be grand, they are truly 'awesome' (a hugely over-used word here). When I had climbed up to a glorious view of range upon range of mountains receding into the distance, I involuntarily exclaimed, "Wow!"
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| A rest after a big climb! |
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| Receding lines of mountains |
As well as undertaking this trip for the sheer enjoyment it is bringing, might I, very gently, remind readers that I am also doing it to raise sponsorship for The Stroke Association. I know lots of supporters have given, very generously, but if anyone had the intention of donating but it has so far gone out of mind, I really do hope to reach the target of £4000.....
More from Breckenridge in a couple of days, by which time I will be past the highest point on the route, the Hoosier Pass, at 11,500 feet.
All best wishes, and so many thanks for your support,
Ken
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