Post 25: Sunday 31 July, having a rest day in Missoula, Montana

Missoula is big, with a population of 57,000. So the ride in yesterday was a culture shock! - I had started the day in Darby, a one street town with 710 residents. And now I am in a city with affluent streets and houses.

A lovely suburban house in Missoula

Missoula County Court House

 But Montana has continued very beautiful.

A craggy gorge on the Bitterroot River

 And I have been blessed by wonderful weather; the last few mornings have been cloudless, and the colours - the lush green of the irrigated hay, the darker greens the trees, the yellow/brown of the parched scrublands higher up the slopes, and the blues, streaked often with white snow, of distant mountains, have been breathtaking.

The Bitterroot River, near Darby

(I have learnt that the irrigation in some places is to permit a third cutting of hay this summer; Montana hay is high quality, and some Kentucky race-horse stables will come here to buy their hay supplies.)

So I greatly enjoyed cycling along the Big Hole Valley basin, out of which I climbed to Chief Joseph Pass, my ninth and last crossing of the Continental Divide.

 From there (at 7200 feet +) I have now dropped to little more than 3000 feet in Missoula. One obvious difference at the lower altitude is seeing deciduous trees again; I had grown used to a visual diet of conifers for days and days. Another difference is that it is much hotter down here....

I am now in the Bitterroot River valley, which began as a gorge but is now a wide glaciated basin like those I have recently been through. The flanking mountains, though, have stayed close, giving good views of the steep valleys up to the peaks - at 9-10,000 feet - with the snow still lingering on some.

The Bitterroot Mountains, South of Missoula

 Chief Joseph was a chief of the Nez Perce Indians. On my way up to the Pass I visited the site of Big Hole Battlefield, which is now a National Historical Site, and done very well as such places always are. The battle was an engagement between Nez Perce Indians and US forces in 1877. In summary, the US authorities revoked a treaty with the Nez Perce signed earlier, which had restricted the Nez Perce to a particular area in the NW, pretty much where their ancestral homelands were, for hundreds of years, maybe thousands.... The reason for revoking the treaty was that gold had been found, in the lands safeguarded for the NP, and settlers, stockmen and miners regarded it as their 'Manifest Destiny' to move onto Nez Perce land. Some NP, but not all, signed a new treaty reducing their lands by 90% (yes, 90%!). But many NP did not regard themselves bound by that, and friction turned to hostilities. One group of NP were trekking towards the area assigned to them, but later than required, and US troops were pursuing them to force compliance. The 'battle' at Big Hole River - according to the video I watched - began as a massacre; the US soldiers surrounded the NP camp in the early hours, and when one Indian was in danger of discovering them as he went to check on the horses, they shot him then opened fire into the camp, firing into the Tee-pees, and then setting fire to many of them, and mainly killing women and children. Some of the NP warriors were able to regroup and inflicted big losses on the troops. But the upshot of this 'battle' was that many NP reckoned they could never feel secure in the US, and trekked to Canada.

I found it a very disturbing story, as I had found the story of the Sand Creek Massacre back in Kansas (at much the same time). I brooded on it as I cycled on.

I have commented in this Blog that they do their historical things very well here. But the perspective is often purely white man's history ignoring what happened for centuries before. One information board I read recently beside the road pointed out that one tribe, the Salish, had probably lived in that area for 8000 years....

Anyway, let me get to more prosaic topics.

It has been fun to meet up with more cyclists in recent days. Paul, from Illinois, is a teacher whose wife allows him four weeks each summer to go touring. We had breakfast together in Wisdom, and I learnt a lot from him.

I also met (because I encountered them on the road mending a 'flat') two ladies on a short three day tour, and we had a fun dinner together later that day.

Then in Darby, two evenings ago, coming out of my cabin-room, I was hailed by 5 guys from Cincinnati, Ohio, who cycle together each summer for two or three weeks; they are sort of doing the TransAm in stages. They adopted me for the evening, and it was fun to talk bikes as well as an opportunity for me to learn more about the US generally. Such chance encounters are one of the real joys of touring!

My daily eating habits have evolved into a routine - if circumstances permit. I like to have oatmeal (=porridge) and toast and tea for breakfast, either in my motel (if it's provided), or in a cafe. (Sometimes cafes provide breakfast from 6 am.).

Then, though - if there is a restaurant or cafe at the right time - at around 10, I like a second breakfast, perhaps an omelette (=protein) and toast. I had a wonderful omelette yesterday in a beautiful cafe called "Memories" in a tiny place called Corvallis.....

Memories cafe, outside...

... and inside

Or, if that's not possible, but there is somewhere to eat at around noon, then a toasted BLT sandwich and iced tea goes down well! (Iced tea here is called simply "tea"; English-type tea is known as "hot tea"!) As well as these more substantial refuelling stops, I also stop to snack from my own supplies every 10 or 12 miles: baby doughnuts, choc chip cookies, energy bars, 'trail-mix' (=mixed nuts and dried fruits) or whatever.

And then my evening meal will have as much pasta or rice as possible! But no, I am not yet getting fat!

I have to confess, though, that I am now feeling cumulatively a little weary, and part of me would simply like to finish. Perhaps not surprising after 3,400 miles.... 12 more cycling days (and one more rest day, after today), along my revised 'northern' route, including the Northern Cascade mountains in Washington. It promises to be very beautiful, again. Then I should get to Anacortes on Saturday 13 August. Roll on, both my wheels and the time!

I know some readers think I'm a bit crazy. But my friend Steve Lant (from Newcastle) has told me of a Geordie guy who is running across the States, from California to New York City, aiming to do it in 100 days (31 miles a day). So far he is a bit behind target but has done 90 days - would you believe?! - and has 410 miles to go. Now as an adventure or challenge that is crazy beyond belief!! (He has a website/blog: www.rungeordierun.com )

Two more noteworthy names to share with you: a local Montana beer is called "Moose Drool" - appetizing? Not sure..... But this roadside advert which I saw yesterday must take the prize!

With best wishes, and continuing thanks for your interest and support,

Ken

Early morning shadows