Post 11: 12 June, from Golconda, Illinois

Traquil lake in state park near Carbondale, Illinois

Well, I am drafting this on Sunday, 12 June, in a tiny place called Golconda, Illinois. But there is no internet access or wifi, so I will get it on to the Blog tomorrow, 13 June, from Carbondale, which is much bigger!

My last Post was on my birthday, before I was told of the best possible birthday present..... Daughter Julia (my best cycling buddy) told me on the phone that she and her husband Ben are going to fly out to Colorado in July to spend a week or more with me - not riding (too complicated to bring or to hire bikes), but renting a car and touring. This was SUCH exciting news, and only a month ahead! I shall take a few days off from riding so we can do some exciting exploration together. A real boost for my morale (not that it was sagging, by the way!).
One thing I didn't mention last time was seeing three Amish buggies on the road the morning I left Hodgenville. This social group, numbering only about a quarter of a million in the US, are descendants of Swiss/German Anabaptists who sought refuge from religious persecution in Europe. They eschew many modern inventions (including cars, etc - though I am told they are not averse to riding in them on occasions) and lead a simple life focusing on their community. They dress distinctively - the men wear straw hats and have beards but no moustaches; and the women wear long plain-coloured skirts, and shawls covering their heads. They don't like to be photographed, but I did sneak a shot from a distance of the first buggy that was coming towards me, and the man and girl in it. Their lifestyle intrigues me. They have a reputation for generosity and helpfulness - the hostess at last night's B&B told me that the Amish neighbour of her small farm acts as unofficial caretaker and watchman for her!

I am now in State no 3, Illinois (just for three days). This morning I crossed the Ohio River from Kentucky on a ferry. It's a big river, I guess at least half a mile wide.

On ferry crossing Ohio River to Illinois, 12th June

There has been a massive motorbike fest in Illinois, and at the ferry point the "Christian Motorcyclists' Association" had set up free coffee for all the Harley riders waiting for the ferry. I chatted with them, and before we parted they blessed my bike. I expected it to be cringe-making, but they were so sincere and genuine it was in fact very moving.....



I came to like western Kentucky, although the eastern Appalachian part I had found depressing - the poverty and decay there were quite severe. Western Kentucky is much more prosperous, and yesterday in particular I noticed lots of obviously successful arable farms, with lots of expensive plant and large grain silos. (And over lunch in a cafe I enjoyed listening to some farmers discussing their wheat yields!) I also saw two 'nodding donkeys'; were they for oil, I wonder, or perhaps water for irrigation?

Bank of orange lilies, wild

And Kentucky has lots of horses, very beautiful even to my unpractised eye.
But there is a mystery! In 9 days in the State, I have seen no Kentucky Fried Chicken places. I have heard lots of cockerels (which crow at any time of day), seen - and smelt - lots of chicken farms. But zero KFCs!! Why? - I think we should be told.....

Yesterday had RAIN, for only the second time, and only briefly, but enough to put on my rain jacket. So only 30 minutes in total, now in 21 days of riding! Actually, I hoped it would rain longer, to clear the humidity, but it soon got hot and close again, and I had over 80 miles to cover....

I see very few cyclists. Yesterday, being Saturday, I expected to see leisure riders out, and I did come across a chain-gang of 8, complete with tri-bars and all. But they were the first seen for days and days.

Some more names. I passed a signpost today to "One Horse Gap Lake". And how about this name for a business? - "Dog Gone Clean Grooming Salon".

Sincere thanks to the nine more kind people who have contributed this past week to The Stroke Association; the total you have all given is now well over £2000, which is fantastic. Thank you all so much!

Next posting in a couple more days..... Till then, all best wishes,

Ken