A sort of milestone passed yesterday: 15 days of cycling completed, which is one fifth of the total cycling days I'm likely to have. So that's encouraging. The next milestones I shall enjoy passing are: 1000 miles; crossing the Ohio River; then the Mississippi; then - though this one is some way ahead - first sight of the Rockies!
The last two days, since Berea, have felt very different. It is indeed good to be out of the Appalachians. Not that it's now flat; far from it, both days have involved 2500 feet or so of climbing, but the countryside is rolling, so less sapping of energy. I have been reminded of England too; yesterday I saw cow parsley, and a dry stone wall, and today I have passed some arable farms, the first since central Virginia. One sight I have never seen in England though is cows standing in dew ponds/reservoirs simply to keep cool! It is indeed hot; when I stopped for a snack break at 1030 this morning, my bike computer was reading 30C/86F already. But I have really been incredibly lucky with the weather; still only the 20 minutes of rain I had on Day 5 (24 May). The skies each day are a wonderful blue, almost cloudless, and the greens of fields and trees are still fresh and vibrant. The air smells of high summer - delightful.
It can be uncomfortable cycling in the afternoons, though. So I try to be on the bike soon after 0800 and arrive at my destination early afternoon. That worked very well today, because I was able to talk to grandson Freddie (aged 3) on the phone; he was already in bed, and I was able to sing to him one of our own special lullabies. (It was hard; I had a big lump in my throat....).
I mentioned churches in my last blog post. Yesterday morning (Sunday) I was riding into a tiny place called Kirksville when I heard the strains of "Onward Christian Soldiers". It was being broadcast across the (apparently still sleeping) township from speakers in the church tower - a bit like churchbells from an English village church. Rather attractive (unless trying to sleep). This morning, in an even smaller place called Mackville (population about 200, according to my map), I counted five churches. True! And all looked well-kept and thriving.
I have been surprised to learn that, despite the Prohibition era ending in the 1930s, individual counties can still decide to be 'dry'. It's a matter for local decision, apparently (and sadly, I have had to forego my usual glass of red wine since a week ago.
Yesterday I was able to meet up with Mike and Joan again, with whom I had cycled a couple of days in Virginia. They drove down from their home in Cincinnati, Ohio, to have a training ride on the TransAm trail, and all being well will be resuming their big trip at the end of this week. It was great seeing and riding with them again, though we won't be able to do so again as I will be about two weeks ahead of them when they restart. Lovely lovely people, and I am sure this new friendship will last.
Curious retailing resonances yesterday and today (on which I have commented by email to some of my John Lewis Partnership friends). Yesterday I stayed in Harrodsburg, and today I passed through Fenwick, which - honestly! - was on Shop Town Road!
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| Entering Harrodsburg, an American welcome- 5th June |
I am so touched by the generosity of so many friends to The Stroke Association. I try to email thanks personally to each kind contributor, but I fear it's impossible if I don't have the email addresses. Instead I thank you here; it is hugely appreciated.
Finally, a personal note. In all this sunshine I am developing the most ridiculous tan lines, where cycling top and shorts stop; also, although my forearms are brown, it stops at my wrists because of my cycling mitts. As I say, ridiculous - not at all a look for the beach!
Thanks as ever for all your support everyone!
All best wishes, Ken
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